When shooting studio strobes I typically set my ISO low around 100-400 and then leave it on one specific setting.Īfter you set the ISO starting point on your camera or off camera light meter, we typically refer to the power of a strobe by “f-stops”, leaving shutter speed out of the conversation entirely.Īs we just learned in the video above, shutter speed doesn't affect your exposure when using strobes, only aperture and ISO do. “Zoomed-in” telephoto lenses have more compression.This is what you need to know about lens compression: I promise this doesn't have to be too complicated. Zoom out further from your subject for a larger or deeper depth of field.Zoom in closer to your subject for a shallower depth of field. This will affect your depth of field, because if you remember from Chapter 4, zoom is one of the 3 key factors to controlling depth of field. If you had a focal length of 51mm, you would start zooming in a little bit, and if you had a focal length of 49mm you would start zooming out a little. 50mm is what you and I see with our eyes. It's not zoomed in and not zoomed out. : the distance of a focus from the surface of a lens or curved mirrorįor example, a 50mm lens has a focal length of 50mm.Nope! This has everything to do with lens compression.īefore we dive into lens compression, I want to make sure you understand focal length.Īccording to Merriam-Webster, focal length is defined as: This is a super good place to start for a low-cost entry into shooting with low apertures. We call these amazingly inexpensive (but great bang for your buck quality) 50mm lenses the “NIFTY FIFTY” because of how amazing they are for shooting in various situations. There are quite a few companies that have have produced some great prime lenses without breaking the bank.Ĭanon and Nikon both have a 50mm f1.8 lens for somewhere between $125 to $200 depending on where and when you purchase. Prime lenses have no moving parts like zoom lenses do, so it’s a lot easier (and cheaper) to manufacture a lens that is capable of a much wider aperture.Įven most high end zoom lenses can’t go below an f2.8 aperture, but an inexpensive 50mm prime lens can go all the way down to f1.8 giving you to ability to shoot some really beautiful shallow depth of field images. You have one focal length per lens, and that’s it. This means that the lens does not have the ability to zoom. (By the way, when did Amazon Prime become a verb? I digress…)Ī prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length. No, I’m not talking about Amazon Prime…although you could definitely Amazon Prime one of these lenses. This is why I recommend getting a prime lens to start out. So how much light are we actually losing between the f-stop numbers? Well, as the infographic below shows us, each jump between these common f-stop numbers results in a 1 stop increment. If you increase your f-stop number on your camera, you will make the hole smaller, resulting in less light coming in. Now thankfully you don’t have to know the math to understand any of this. (100 divided by 50 equals 2)Īgain, the bigger the hole…the smaller the f-stop number. That bottom number is the size of the hole.įor example, in our 100mm lens equation above, if we were to open up the aperture even wider to 50mm in diameter, we would now have an f-stop number of f2. (AKA a super nerd didn’t just make up these numbers to confuse us all to death…)Ī smaller f-stop number means the denominator (or bottom number of the fraction) is a higher number. This is the reason the f-stop numbers get smaller as the aperture hole gets larger. So, the reason we have larger apertures with decimal numbers like “2.8” and “1.4” is that these numbers themselves are the sums of fractions. Now that we’ve touched on the exposure triangle, let’s dive into how aperture is measured.
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